From there, the path turns north-west through the most remote and densely forested part of the trail. Short of time and low on stamina, we decided instead to visit Indigo, a tree-house art gallery and guesthouse in Bornes, where Orlando Bloom and Johnny Depp swung in hammocks on their days off from filming Pirates of the Caribbean. Its Bohemian French owner, Marie, has their photographs stuck to her wall. She describes Bloom as "my sweetie" and Depp as "very cool, very natural – and very short".